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Burberry Unplugged

Sat, 09/18/2010 - 3:12pm

Music has long been a key part of the Burberry brand—not for nothing is Christopher Bailey’s most recent fragrance called “Beat.” Over the years, Bailey has tapped musicians to front his labels and walk his shows, and in the run-up to his latest Burberry collection—which hits London fashion week this Tuesday, September 21st, and will be live-streamed here on Style.com—he’s sharing a few new favorites exclusively with us. For the Burberry Acoustic series, Bailey tapped emerging English artists to record unplugged tracks in London. Listen to the first, “Jealousy,” by Patch William, above, and check back in with us for more. We’ll be debuting several more right up until the Burberry show. And as for the main runway event, you can catch it live right here, along with exclusive front-row interviews by Tim Blanks direct from London.

London Fashion Week Is Off To A Royal Start

Sat, 09/18/2010 - 1:33pm

Nothing like a royal benediction to kick off fashion week, and last night, that’s exactly what London got. At the lawn of Clarence House (Prince Charles’ London pad), Mayor Boris Johnson, Livia Firth (the eco-minded Mrs. Colin), Laura Bailey and a smattering of ladies, lords and baronets attended an eco-sustainable fashion show, presented as part of the Prince’s START festival. (For those not in the know, the old guy is rather a hippie where the environment is concerned.) Appropriate pieces from Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and Emma Watson’s collection for People Tree hit the catwalk, with Erin O’Connor leading the way. The garments were made of recycled fabrics, buttons, and military-issue shirts. (Scratch that, the Prince’s people are calling it “upcycled” rather than “recycled”—upcycled is “the more fashionable cousin.”) The whole thing charmingly embodied England’s old post-war credo of “make do and mend.”

Speaking of making do, who couldn’t make do with a vending machine that sells couture instead of M&M’s?  LOVE’s Katie Grand and Selfridges got together to create such a vending machine, which will be housed for the duration of LFW in the lobby of the swankiest hotel in London, St Martin’s Lane. (Appropriate, considering it’s the temporary home to tons of visiting editors, models, photogs, buyers, and fashion clients.) Grand ran riot through Selfridges and cherry-picked her favorite items for the 32-slot LOVE Machine (below). It dispenses a Stella McCartney Falabella bag (left), an Alexander Wang leather and sequin dress, a one-off pair of Rick Owens trainers customized by Chrome Hearts, exclusive Dior nail polishes, Diptyque Mimosa candles exclusive to Selfridges in their signature yellow, and for the gents, Falke’s new “secret socks” for men. A word to the wise, though: Know your size. It’s tough to return an item to a vending machine.

—Afsun Qureshi


Photos: Courtesy of LOVE

Toasting T

Fri, 09/17/2010 - 4:48pm

“Second only to Diane von Furstenberg, Sally Singer is my favorite woman in fashion,” Mickey Boardman said last night. “Wherever she is, I’ll be there with bells on.”

Last night, “there” was the Spotted Pig, and Boardman was indeed on hand-draped in bling if not in bells. He’d turned up, like Charlie Rose, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Jonathan Adler, and Jason Wu (left, with Singer), to toast Singer’s new gig as the editor in chief of T. The editor herself was in a forward-looking mood (if a little exhausted, like most of those on hand, from a week-plus of fashion shows). But she’s as well known for her wide-ranging non-fashion interests-design, literature, culture, art, and so on-as for her taste for clothes. And at T, that’s a requisite. “I think [the interconnectedness] is indelible to T and the Times, where we have the best newsroom in the world-the best newsrooms all over the world.” Asked if she felt pressure to institute bold changes, she demurred. “Not at all,” she said. “I think Stefano [Tonchi] did an incredible job. I inherited an incredible magazine. I don’t have to change anything. A magazine just naturally takes on the personality of its editor.”

The Spotted Pig, meanwhile, had taken on the personality of the magazine for the night. Giant bouquets of roses scented the second floor room, and scattered around were giant versions of T’s gothic-script logo constructed out of hay. It may have been the tail end of a long fashion week, but the designers came to pay their respects, too. Joseph Altuzarra, fielding compliments and praise for his show, spoke for many when he said, “Sally was one of my earliest supporters. I’m so happy for her.” And Wu put the capper on it: “What’s not to celebrate? Sally’s amazing.”

—Chris Wallace

Photo: Chance Yeh/Patrick McMullan

The Photographer In The Front Row

Fri, 09/17/2010 - 3:54pm

She’s usually the one to set the flashbulbs going, not to man them herself. But any show- and partygoer on the town this fashion week has noticed a particularly fetching camerawoman—one seated front-row.

The French actress Elisa Sednaoui has been on fashion types’ minds since starring in Karl Lagerfeld’s Remember Now video, released in conjunction with his Resort collection for Chanel. She came to town for the reopening of Chanel’s Soho boutique, but it wasn’t a strictly Gallic visit. Sednaoui saw plenty of shows, from Diesel Black Gold to Yigal Azrouël, shooting the scenes (on film, not digital, no less) for Paper. “It’s my point of view, my diary,” she explained at the post-show dinner for Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa last night. “It was cool for me because it was a week where I discovered and met many designers: Yigal, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, all people I admire. It was very interesting to see the work of all these young designers as well as the amazing work of Francisco. I’m fresh at all of this, so I still find it quite amusing.”

Not a bad gig—the best of New York, a little Champagne, then on to Paris’ fashion week, and following that, a new movie, shooting in Italy. If it’s a little exhausting, well, call it an occupational hazard. “From tomorrow, I’m trying to come back to normal life. I don’t want anybody to call me, I don’t want to go out—I want to stay in; this is my dream,” she said. With all due respect: Dream on.

—Darrell Hartman

Photo: Billy Farrell/Billy Farrell Agency

Is This The Face Of Spring ‘11?

Fri, 09/17/2010 - 11:15am


With the dust starting to settle on New York fashion week, one thing’s very clear: The seventies are back. Again. And rising from the rubble this time is an unlikely style icon: Shelley Duvall.

This isn’t the first rumbling of Duvall devotion. Marc Jacobs favorite Jamie Bochert is basically a dead ringer, and the heavy-bangs, center-parted shag that Duvall wore back in the day is making waves again. Those waiflike limbs that seem to go on forever—a little gawky, sure, but what could be better suited for all the high-waisted wide-leg trousers that walked the runway this week?

Peter Jensen dedicated his entire Spring collection to the actress (in her seventies iteration, that is). “Was ever a muse more perfect for Peter Jensen than Shelley Duvall?” he wonders in his collection notes. “Beautiful and awkward, chic and gangly, Duvall inspires a collection that takes seventies sophistication and marries it to a wide-eyed innocence.”

Not that innocent. Back in the seventies, Duvall was a thinking man’s sex symbol—the skittish stripper of Robert Altman’s Nashville, one of Alvy Singer’s neurotic conquests in Annie Hall. And here on the runways were clothes to match. Peasant tops at Rebecca Taylor looked like they’d been plucked straight from the firing-range scene in Altman’s 3 Women. The first few exits at Derek Lam were summer-ized, sexed-up versions of her hysterical housewife in The Shining. Marc Jacobs mined the Me Decade for both his main line and Marc by Marc collections, and his long, flouncy dresses would’ve suited her to a T.

Shelley, if you’re listening, your wardrobe’s ready—it hits stores this spring. Here’s hoping it’ll bring you back down to earth a bit. According to reports, you’re spending days in small-town Texas, on the hunt for aliens.

—Laurie Trott


Nashville, left; Peter Jensen, right.


Annie Hall, left; Marc by Marc Jacobs, right.

Photos: Everett Collection (The Shining, top; Nashville); United Artists/Everett Collection (Annie Hall); Marcio Maderia/FirstView.com (Marc by Marc Jacobs, Peter Jensen)

Raising Arizona

Fri, 09/17/2010 - 10:00am

There’s been the usual streak of great new girls on the New York runways this season—Ilva Heitmann, Kirsi Pyrhonen, and Stephanie Rad among them—but one unfamiliar young model with a few key bookings is actually a returning star. The 21-year-old Santa Fe, New Mexico native Arizona Muse—real name, apparently—first caught casting directors’ eyes back in ‘08, but she took a few years off to have a baby. She’s back in a big way for Spring ‘11, though, thanks in part to her chic, ragged little bob. Most models avoid short cuts, but Arizona’s a perfect example (like Tao Okamoto and Irina Lazareanu before her) of models whose crop tops have been key to their success. This season, Muse bagged Marc Jacobs (and Marc By), Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Narciso Rodriguez, and Isaac Mizrahi, among others. With a résumé like that behind her, Europe may well be in the cards. Photo: Luca Cannoniere / GoRunway.com

Lady Gaga On Nicola Formichetti’s Appointment At Thierry Mugler

Thu, 09/16/2010 - 3:51pm

Last week, Nicola Formichetti (left) was announced as the new creative director of Thierry Mugler. Formichetti styles for just about everyone cool—he was fashion director of Dazed & Confused, and contributing fashion director at Vogue Hommes Japan. But he’s best known as Lady Gaga’s personal stylist, and she’s got something to say for the occasion (no surprise there). Over to you, Gaga:

“Blood pumps through Nicola’s veins like perfume and cigarettes. His brain throbs with misfit royalty, glamour as punk survival, attitude as liberation, style as revolution. Thierry Mugler has a way with legendary lifestyle and Nicola is just that: Epic Lifestyle, Freakdom, Gorgeous or Die, the ‘fuck’ in future poetry, the street in High-Fashion. Nicola Formichetti is Fashion’s Freedom. I love him, my friend the genius, my collaborator, more than any piece of clothing or closet I possess. But don’t tell him I said that, he’ll die. He picked them all out.” —Lady Gaga

Photo: Mariano Vivanco

The Lady Turned Tramp At Proenza Schouler’s After-Party

Thu, 09/16/2010 - 2:48pm

The Proenza Schouler girl looks softer and more feminine on the runway this season, but designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s after-party at Don Hill’s was all about roughening her edges. “We like contradictions, I guess,” Hernandez explained.

It was the revivified rock club’s final dark-and-dirty fashion week bash, even if the Brooklyn band Crystal Stilts didn’t quite inspire the delirium (or door madness) of Yeah Yeah Yeahs or Iggy Pop. Nevertheless, organizers feared things might get sloppy, and gave photographers the boot around midnight. (An exemption was granted to Adrian Grenier, who seems to have taken up party photography as a hobby; 20 bucks says it has something to do with the fact that HBO is airing his documentary Teenage Paparazzo later this month.) The only obvious signs of impropriety, though, were the grainy porn films—part of a new project by photog Sante D’Orazio—playing on monitors above the Belvedere-sponsored bar. “We put censor bars over it, for the ladies,” Hernandez said. He was joking, of course: Only the faces were blacked out.

—Darrell Hartman

Photo: Zac Sebastian

A Night Off From Fashion At The New Bortolami Gallery

Thu, 09/16/2010 - 1:25pm

Man cannot live on fashion alone. And especially as the end of fashion fortnight (who ever said it’s just a week?) approaches, a little art starts to look very good. No surprise, then, to see the style types at the opening of the new Bortolami gallery last night. Artist (and fashion-friendly DJ) Nate Lowman; Adam Kimmel and his new bride, Leelee Sobieski; and The Webster’s Frederic Dechnik and Laure Heriard Dubreuil (pictured, with Lowman) all stopped by.

“This is a really fun space to work with,” Stefania Bortolami said of her new space on West 20th Street, one that’s roughly three times the size of her old one. To celebrate her new real estate, the inaugural show is a retrospective of past Bartolami exhibitions, including some of the hottest names in the business—Jack Pierson, Cecily Brown, Hanna Liden, and Gardar Eide Einarsson among them. Einarsson was in town from his home in Tokyo, joined by his gorgeous model-turned-PR-maven wife, Maryline. He’ll be working out of a Dumbo studio for six weeks. “I don’t really work too much in Tokyo because I don’t have a studio there,” he explained. “Basically I’m an intern for Maryline’s PR company; I just sit around and stuff envelopes all day!” Just another hardworking fashion publicist in New York, in other words—albeit one with a few works in permanent collections ’round the globe.

—Johnny Misheff

Photo: Antwan Duncan

No. 6 Turns 5

Thu, 09/16/2010 - 10:30am

Kim Gordon is shaping up to be fashion week’s unofficial hostess with the mostest: The alt-rock legend has been receiving friends and fans at fêtes throughout the week (when, that is, she’s not catching the shows). There’s been her new Sportmax collaboration, with its attendant gathering, and then there was the fifth anniversary of No. 6, Morgan Yakus and Karin Bereson’s ultra-cool downtown boutique. The week is wearing on, but Rogan Gregory, Anna Sheffield, and Beastie Boy Mike D appeared to be handling the week’s umpteenth event in stride. Ever the gracious host, Gordon signed copies of the latest No. 6 portfolio, in which her newest series, The Noise Paintings, are featured. She took for her source material a lyric from Fleetwood Mac’s “Rhiannon” (”She is like a cat in the dark, and then she is the darkness”) and divided it into 14 single-word paintings on canvas paper. (No. 6 has also printed them onto silk T-shirts, sold at the shop.) Strange bedfellows, the art rocker and the moon child? “I always go back to Stevie Nicks,” Gordon said. And not just her. “I used a Richard Hell lyric for another series, and another one from Kurt Vile, who I can’t stop listening to.” At this party, she didn’t have to: Vile was on hand for an acoustic set.

—Johnny Misheff

Photo: Elizabeth Lippman

On Our Radar: Miu Miu Limited-Edition Vintage Print Dress

Thu, 09/16/2010 - 9:45am


What’s old is new again at Miu Miu: The label is launching a collection of limited-edition dresses in vintage prints from its own archive. Eight past-season prints were revived in two dress styles, available exclusively at Miu Miu shops. Prada launched a similar initiative this past summer to great success (and a surprisingly strong celebrity following, too). If you missed a past print, now’s your chance—but don’t wait long. You’ll be kicking yourself if you miss it twice.

Miu Miu limited-edition vintage print dresses, $1,030, available at Miu Miu stores nationwide, www.miumiu.com.

—Marina Larroude

Photo: Courtesy of Miu Miu

Zahm Looks For Love (But First, A Dance At Le Bain)

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 5:47pm



Last night, a heavy wind put a slight damper on what was to be Zadig & Voltaire’s dinner on the rooftop of the Standard. Instead of a windblown dinner, guests were served bite-sized sliders and sea bass downstairs, hot tub-side at Le Bain. But there was less eating going on than boogieing. The evening’s host, Purple’s Olivier Zahm, who shoots the ad campaigns for the French label, spent much of his time chatting up Dree Hemingway (pictured with Zahm, above) and Byrdie Bell, and getting down on the dance floor with Irina Lazareanu and Eniko Mihalik (pictured with Zahm, top). “It’s a good floor to dance on; you can slide but not too much,” Zahm mused of the tiles.

Think of that dancing as research—Zahm is thinking of his next Z&V shoot and wants to focus on paramours. “I told them I want to shoot couples,” he said. “We haven’t decided yet, but one day it will be me with my new girlfriend.” (Zahm is newly single, a fact he announced with a heartfelt post on Purple’s blog that set off a chain of online condolences.) Last night, he said he’s ready to change because “I’m always losing the one I love.”

But it’s not only his approach to romance that may evolve; it’s his look, too. “For men, it’s not easy to not be silly when you follow fashion. For a man your look has to be organic. I think I’m getting more and more into fashion. I want a cleaner look. It’s a softer touch because I feel like I need to be,” he says, gesturing to his ensemble, which included a black velvet dinner jacket. “Girls like it softer, right?”

—Alisa Gould-Simon

Our New Favorite Fashion Week Survival Gear

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 4:58pm

Last season, on top of reviewing 30-plus shows for Style.com, I set myself a Herculean—maybe I should say Turlingtonian—task: yoga. Every day. No excuses. Screw hangovers. Even though it meant squishing sweaty tank tops into my purse and occasionally arriving backstage for a pre-show interview smelling like sage, I did it. The results were so positive (more energy, a usefully Zen approach to dressing, triceps), I decided to repeat the challenge this season, but this time with much cuter clothes. Creem, a line of sustainably produced yoga gear made in New York, officially debuts next week at NOW, the annual locally minded, eco-designer showcase, but I’ve been giving the pieces a test run at my Tribeca studio at 7:45 a.m. classes this week (I may have missed it today, following Style.com’s tenth anniversary rager last night). My review: Attaining enlightenment is much easier with a flattering tank top.

Visit www.creemcollection.com for more information. Updated styles coming soon. —Alison Baenen

The Style.com Airstream Has Arrived

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 12:00pm

Step right up, New Yorkers: The Style.com Airstream trailer, fully stocked with our ten designer T-shirt collaborations, is open and ready for business today (and only today) at 22nd Street and Broadway in NYC. Come by and say hello and pick up your limited-edition tees from Lanvin, Givenchy, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, and more.

Photo: Steven Torres

Lagerfeld, Behind The Lens

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 11:49am

There have been 53 shows of Karl Lagerfeld’s photos, but until now, not one retrospective. Well, no secret that the man doesn’t like looking back. But for the roundup at Paris’ Maison Européennee, Parcours de Travail (that’s Work in Progress), he submitted to a few reminders. The show covers everything from Lagerfeld’s photographic beginnings in 1987 to the present day. “It was very hard to edit,” admits Eric Pfrunder, who co-curated the show with Maison director Jean-Luc Monterosso. “What¹s fascinating is the multiplicity of techniques Karl uses, from serigraphy, to gelatin silver prints, resin paper prints, canvas prints…” It was Pfrunder, Chanel’s image director since 1983, who first convinced Lagerfeld to get behind the lens, for a Chanel press release in 1987.

The opening drew a horde of colleagues and favorite subjects including Vanessa Paradis, Peter Marino, Mario Testino, David Lynch, and Bernadette Chirac, wife of former French President Jacques Chirac, whom Lagerfeld photographed for Paris Match on the eve of the Chiracs’ departure from the Elysée Palace. The relentlessly busy designer/photographer himself was there, too, but odds are he’s not the type to stick around and admire his own greatest hits for long. New projects call: the launch of a capsule collaboration for Hogan, which will be presented during the Paris shows, and the 2011 Pirelli calendar he shot. He bypassed the beach for his Paris studio for that one, but it launches in Moscow at the end of November.

—Rebecca Voight

Photo: Jan Melka

Gym Dandy

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 9:51am

Designer Tom Scott is not shy about his eBay addiction. “I’m on eBay all the time—it’s very inspiring,” he admitted at his Spring 2011 presentation. A recent find was the 1915 Iowa State University yearbook. “The Bomb,” as it is titled, not only gave Scott a trove of classic Americana and sports uniforms to play with in his new collection of knits, it even gave him the collection’s title.

Staged in the gym-slash-theater of a West Village parochial school, models stood in circles tossing basketballs back and forth. Playing on the concept of sporty pieces—T-shirts, leggings, jumpsuits, and windbreakers—Scott tweaked both proportion and material: The sportswear here was oversized and had Lurex woven through the organic cotton and nylon mesh. Instead of the usual track shorts, here was a slouchy sequined pair. Among the usual athletic neutrals, there were pops of safety orange, spearmint, and coral. What was old became new again—and in the case of the T Shirt T Shirt, literally so. It was woven together from strips of vintage cotton tees.

—Laurie Trott

Photo: Courtesy of Tom Scott

LIVE FROM NEW YORK: MICHAEL KORS

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 9:45am

Watch live-streaming video of the Michael Kors Spring 2011 collection here. The show begins at 10 am.


What It’s Really Like To Work For Marc

Tue, 09/14/2010 - 1:45pm

Most employees finish the workday and clock out. Not Marc Jacobs’. Moments after the designer took his runway bow after his Spring ‘11 collection show, a friends-and-family crowd—including many of Jacobs’ own employees—headed downtown to celebrate their boss. And, incidentally, themselves. In conjunction with the new Bookmarc book store on Bleecker Street, the company has just published Brian Bowen Smith’s The Men and Women of Marc Jacobs, a collection of photos of the extremely photogenic MJ workforce. The steamy launch fête (”I lost five pounds in there,” one partygoer cried) and gallery exhibition stretched through two rented buildings adjacent to the Bleecker Street Marc by Marc shop, as well as across the street at Bookmarc.

Having spent four years documenting the faces of Marc Jacobs employees, photographer Brian Bowen Smith (who got his start as a model and, subsequently, assistant to Herb Ritts) is as bona fide an expert on the company as they come. “This isn’t a family you can just jump into. It’s a gift,” Smith (left, with Jacobs) says. “Robert [Duffy, Marc Jacobs’ president] is the kind of guy that will go through the trenches with you, do the same shit with you, eat at the same table as you, and make everyone feel as though they’re all on one plane. Marc is the same way.”

“I think it’s just that they all stay forever. We have a really low turnover rate,” Duffy says of the company’s family feel. And why’s that? “We give them raises, clothing allowances, and pay their medical benefits, and just treat them how I would want to be treated.” Doesn’t sound like a bad gig. But, as warm and fuzzy as MJ HQ may be, Duffy admits that there is one aspect of interoffice relations he’d like to change. “Marc is constantly blowing smoke in my face for two solid weeks in our office while getting our show together. I want him to quit smoking and to quit blowing it in my face.”

Secondhand smoke aside, the celebration left more than one guest wishing they, too, could join the family. “I could do anything,” Bryanboy exclaimed. “I could be the girl sitting behind the water cooler, I would be a fitting assistant. I could be in the closet. Anything, really.”

—Alisa Gould-Simon

Photo: Chance Yeh/Patrick McMullan

The Apfel of Our Eye

Tue, 09/14/2010 - 12:45pm

As you may have heard, Style.com is celebrating a big birthday this week. We’re not afraid to show our age—we’re 10 and proud! (Oh, the things we’ve seen—and rounded up for our decade-in-review anniversary feature!)

It may be our birthday, but we’re giving you the present. We’ve teamed up with ten amazing designers and labels to offer limited-edition T-shirts on the theme of ten—each one incorporates the Roman numeral X. They’ll go on sale tomorrow at a one-day-only pop-up shop at 22nd Street and Broadway in NYC and at Colette in Paris, then right here on Style.com the next day. To show off the designs from Givenchy, Lanvin, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, and more, we called in a few friends and fans to model for our very own Tommy Ton. Click here for a look at the first five, including Lanvin (pictured, worn by the ageless style icon Iris Apfel), Wang (worn by Leigh Lezark), and Balmain (modeled by Anna Dello Russo).

Photo: Tommy Ton

Fenton/Fallon: The Music Video

Tue, 09/14/2010 - 11:42am

The Harper’s Bazaar-sponsored Accessories Bazaar opens today at the Lincoln Center tents at New York fashion week, where some of the best designers working—including Prova’s Irini Arakas, Albertus Swanepoel, Philip Crangi, and Fenton/Fallon’s jeweler extraordinaire, Dana Lorenz. To spotlight her new Spring ‘11 offerings, Lorenz created a short video with fashion’s go-to filmmaker, Sharif Hamza. Model Hil gets all dolled up (those nails! that hair! the 15 or so pounds of Fenton/Fallon goods!) and waits for the phone to ring. Squint just right and she could be the heroine of an early-eighties Robert Palmer video. She’s gonna have to face it, she’s addicted to love—and jewelry, of course. Check out the exclusive debut below.

—Matthew Schneier